I may be poor, but I'm sexy

No, the title of this post isn't a personal statement (although on second thought...)

No, no. It's Berlin's catchphrase. And you best believe it's the truth. I took a five day trip to Berlin at the end of September and celebrated Germany's reunification day with a tour of the Reichstag and a kinda-small-but-pretty-big street fair surrounding the Brandenburger Tor. A tour guide pointed out the big reunification celebration was in Munich this year. That was the moment we turned to our program director and he sunk his eyes in shame. Yet, I can't be upset. So we missed the big party. Berlin was the center of strife and the symbol of a divided Germany. Culture, tears, blood and hope is twined into the fibers of the city.

Please excuse me as I suffer a history-major-geek-out spasm. BerlinwallstalincommunismchurchillJFKcubamissileussrironcurtainperestroikagorbachevteardownthatwall.

Thanks.

I absolutely loved Berlin. Graffiti smears the walls all around you, sometimes you catch people peeing on a train platform and it's transportation system is unconquerable. But I didn't want to leave. So much so I found myself clubbing my last night away until I showed up back at my hostel at 6 a.m. for 40 minutes of shut-eye before dragging myself out of bed.

Maybe it's because food was cheaper and you can get the best Döners in the world at Mustafa's, which was a two minute walk from my hostel. The line stretches for at least 30 minutes from about 10 a.m. to 5 a.m. There's a reason I used the word BEST.

Maybe it's because Berlin is massive and so small at the same time. It only has just over 3 million people. The South Florida metropolitan area has a similar population. Berlin is a neighborhood to cites like London, New York, and Shanghai. When you walk the streets, however, you're never alone. People are always buzzing, humming, and yes, peeing. It's as if Berlin doesn't know where it belongs. Is it a major population center? Well it's Germany's biggest by about double. Is it a small city among the giants? Perhaps.

Maybe for me it is all the history. The pain, the fear, the tyranny. The resurgence of hope. A banner outside the German National History Museum reads "Wir sind ein Volk". We are one people. And I like to think Berlin is a modern tower of Babel in this way. It was divided and controlled, not just on the Soviet side, and its people learned they were different. They didn't have the same dialect or the same beliefs. They didn't shop at the same stores or drive the same cars (I had to make a Trabi joke). But in the end they had to learn from each other and the city sprung into an eclectic mix of counterculture and progress.

No matter what the reason, I loved Berlin. And now that my sister lives there, I can't wait to go back. Even if she didn't, I would make the six hour (or eight hours if some poor soul decides to jump in front of your train like ours) train ride. I suggest you go visit, too.

If I may borrow a line I once saw written on a canvas in a friend's house, it's the perfect city to sleep late, have fun, get wild, drink whiskey, and drive fast on empty streets with nothing in mind except falling in love and not getting arrested.

Oktoberfest: The Age-Old Frat Party

Greetings from Prague!

I will write all about the Golden City in a post soon to follow but I just thought I'd let you know why this second portion of Oktoberfest took so long. Before I can can even write about one city I'm already in another. Crappy life, huh? I don't think so either. Without much more humble jumble, here's what happened the other times I fested in Oktober.

Lines, lines. Waiting, waiting. No, no. That's what you get outside an Oktoberfest tent if you come too late in the day. I can't help but get the feeling I'm a lonely freshmen who decided to walk around the frat quad, and see from which one I can snatch some alcohol. Except here in Deutschland, the bier isn't free. As I said before and I'll say it again, my wallet has been sore for a while.

On Day 3 (Tuesday night, whaddup!) I took advantage of the half priced rides on family night. For those of you who are questioning why there is a family night at Oktoberfest, a giant bier festival, keep wondering. I have no idea who would bring their kids to such an event where grown adults drink toward a stupor and spend a month's salary in a few hours. But I say, at least they know what to look forward to when they're older. You gotta give kids a chance to dream after all.

Back on the five-ring Olympic roller coaster, Megan and I rode front row, despite being cut off in line by two 10-year-old Germans. Then she convinced me (and herself, because she had no idea what it did either) to ride "Top Spin". Imagine rows of movie theater seats flying through the air and spinning backward and forward in the process. We figured if all the totally-impressionable future-beer-drinking kids could do it, we could, too.

By the time we met up with the rest of the students in my program, one of them had kissed half the people a the table and couldn't really stand up on her on will. She had a good time to be sure, but our friend's vomit-covered dirndl would disagree. Then came disaster after disaster which would haunt me for the next week.

As I stood on the table in a biergarten and went to take a swig of my beer, my friend stood up to go to the restroom. Worse. Timing. Ever. His shoulder bumped my arm and rocketed my glass straight into my teeth. Admittedly, I was already one and half liters in and it didn't hurt too bad. I felt like there was a tiny shard of glass lodged in between my two front teeth. I could deal with that. It was only the next morning I realized that sharp edge was actually my chipped tooth. I like to think of it as my Oktoberfest battle scar. It's really not too outrageous of a story, but everyone I meet from here on out doesn't need to know the truth. They can't handle the truth. So lies, extravagance and debauchery are the only solutions.

But wait, reader! You recall the mention that one disaster followed this one? Well, unfortunately, I like using a lot of commas, and something else did happen, to me.

As four of us squeezed onto a table full of Irishmen, we rejoiced in our luck and the insane atmosphere. Fest music, screams, chants and beer filled the air. The air.

The air.

The air.

All I saw was the air. And my Maß. Then the neighboring table's soaked wooden surface lapped at my face. Turns out Einstein is still alive and decided to jump off the other side of the bench I stood on, hurling my friend and I backwards. It wasn't until the next day (once again) that I realized what damage I had suffered. I had bitten my tongue all around the sides and my knee ached as I went up steps the next few days.

You know what though? Not a drop of my beer spilled. That's a win in my book.

Ringing in (and out) Oktoberfest

So on this day, the first day after Oktoberfest, I have much to say about the world's biggest festival of beer.

It truly is magical. I know I said I didn't know what to expect going into it, but wow. I'm impressed, Wiesn. Somehow I expected it to be a bit too overbearing after the first weekend. But I found myself wanting to go back again and again. With an ENORMOUS drain on my wallet, bank account, social security, etc. because every liter of bier (oh yes, bier by the liter) costs 10 Euros.

Day 1

The first day at the actual festival drowned away all my spirits. Literally soaked them through with sheets of rain. But, being the resourceful crew that we were back then (my sister and her friends included--remember that post about five people sleeping in my room?? IT HAPPENED) we managed to find this bar near the festival. It was cheaper, it was fun, and most importantly it was dry. We spent the majority of the day there. Or at least what felt like it.

After a liter we were happy, and we got bought a round by this American guy named Seven. Yes, Seven. Like the number. He even signed an email to us the next day with "7". I hope his parents know what humiliation they put him through.

So two liters in we sat there, wide-eyed and smiling, with Sam and her friend Ashley riding people shoulders, dancing on tables and really annoying these Australian guys as they tried to watch a soccer game on television. Dudes, priorities? Thank you.

Then we looked at a clock. It was a quarter past two. Talk about a slap in the face. We were plastered and starving, our bodies screaming for nutrients and reeling about the fact it was only two in the afternoon. This would be a long weekend indeed.

Day 2

Mother nature smiled on us today. Sun shining, pancakes in the morning made by our very own chocolatier, we rode out to Wiesn once again. Day two we finally got into a tent. This time the crew had changed about. It was now my sister, Megan our English comedian-friend, and my friends studying in Berlin, Alyssa and Paris. The latter grabbed a table inside the Spaten tent, where we ordered our first true Oktoberfest Maßes. One Maß = one liter. That first sip was so incredibly delicious, refreshing, can't even describe all the cultural fucking experience rushing into my mouth, more corny words. Ahhhhh. You get the point. It was superb.

Another Maß and giant pretzel later and we were finished. Not because we couldn't handle it. Oh no, no. Don't judge us just yet. The table we had was reserved. So we said auf Wiedersehen and took our bier-saturated selves to find some delicious grub. Bratwurst in der Semmel was calling my name. There's something to be said about a country loving sausages and people all around you stuffing there faces with meat and wrapped in bread. But I really can't bring myself to do it.



Days 3,4, and 5 plus my trip to Berlin coming up soon. I promise. But don't hold me to it. Because gosh, in order to write these things I need to have a life.